Rato Machhindranath Jatra, the Longest Running Festival in Nepal

Rato Macchindranath Jatra is a chariot-pulling festival and one of the most important celebrations in the Kathmandu Valley, celebrated by the Newar community in the Lalitpur district. Held every year just before the monsoon hits the Kathmandu Valley, the festival reflects deep devotion towards Rato Machhindranath, the god of rain and harvest. In the native Newari language, Rato Machhindranath is known as “Bunga Dyah”. For Buddhists, Rato Machhindranath is regarded as Karunamaye, the compassionate God of Mercy and a form of Avalokiteshvara.

The festival is believed to have originated during the reign of the King Narendra Deva (643 – 679 AD), the then ruler of the Bhaktapur Kingdom. It is the longest-running chariot festival in Nepal, which begins with the construction of a 60-foot tall chariot with four wheels. The four wheels represent the four Bhairavas who assisted in bringing Rato Machhindranath from Assam to Nepal.

The month-long festival concludes with the celebration of Bhoto Jatra, or “Vest Festival”, during which a government official presents and displays an embroidered vest. The chariot-pulling festival starts at Pulchowk and traverses various places in Lalitpur, including Natole, Gabahal, Mangal Bazar, Sundhara, Lagankhel, Kumaripati, before ending at Jawalakhel. The chariot of Rato Machhindranath is accompanied by a smaller chariot known as Chakuwa Dyah, or the chariot of Minnath, also known as Jattadhari Lokeshwor, the God of Life. It is also said that the history of Chakuwa Dyah is older than that of Bunga Dyah.

Key historical figures associated with the origin of the Rato Machhindranath Jatra include King Narendra Deva of Bhaktapur, Tantric Bandhudatta Acharya of Kathmandu, Lalit Jyapu of Lalitpur, and Karkotak Nagaraja (the king of serpents).

The Genesis: The Tale behind the Origin of Rato Machhindranath Jatra

Once upon a time, during the Lichhavi era, when the Kathmandu Valley was divided into three separate kingdoms – Yen, Khopa, and Yala, corresponding to present-day Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, and Lalitpur – a revered yogi named Guru Gorakhnath, also known as Kanfatta Yogi, visited the valley. He was not well received by the people of the Kathmandu Valley, which infuriated him. In retaliation, Guru Gorakhnath took control of the nine serpents responsible for bringing rain to the valley and sat on them in deep meditation.

With the rain-bringing serpents under his control for more than 12 years, the Kathmandu valley suffered from severe drought and famine. Concerned about the dire conditions faced by his people, King Narendra Deva, the ruler of Bhaktapur, travelled to Swoyambhu in Kathmandu to seek advice from Tantric Shantikar Bajracharya. The tantric informed the king that the drought was caused by Guru Gorakhnath’s control over the serpents. He suggested that the only way to release the serpents from Gorakhnath’s grip was to bring Karunamaye, Guru Gorakhnath’s teacher, to Kathmandu.

Rato Machhindranath, known as Karunamaye or the God of Mercy, had been reborn as the 108^th son of King Sashi and Queen Maya of Yakshya Desh, a land of Demons in present-day Assam, India.

Accompanied by Tantric Bandhudatta Acharya from Kathmandu and a farmer named Lalit Jyapu from Lalitpur, King Narendra Deva set off on a journey to Yakshya Desh to bring Karunamaye to Kathmandu. They were joined by another figure, Karkotak Nagaraja, the king of the serpents. Although they reached Yakshya Desh, they initially failed to bring Karunamaye. To succeed, they enlisted the help of four Bhairavas, who managed to bring Karunamaye to Kathmandu.

Upon Karunamaye’s arrival in in the valley, Guru Gorakhnath, sensing his teacher’s presence, ended his meditation, which brought rain to the valley.

The long drought in the Kathmandu Valley finally came to an end. However, a debate arouse among the three kingdoms about where Karunamaye should reside. Ultimately, through a clever strategy, the King of Latitpur prevailed, and Karunamaye was installed in Lalitpur.

Since then, the people of the valley have celebrated Rato Machhindranath Jatra to pay homage to Karunamaya and to commemorate the event that rescued the Kathmandu Valley from a 12-year-long drought and famine.

Lalitpur used to be known as “Yala” in the ancient times, named after the Kiranti King Yalambar, the first ruler of the Kathmandu Valley. However, after the valley as rescued from the drought and famine, Yala was renamed Lalitpur in honor of the farmer Lalit Jyapu, who played a key role in bringing Karunmaye to the valley to end the drought.

The Tale behind the Origin of Bhoto Jatra

Initially, Bhoto Jatra was not a part of Rato Machhindranath Jatra. Every year, Rato Machhindranath Jatra was celebrated in the valley with great enthusiasm.

One year, the wife of Karkotak Nagaraja, who was residing in Taudaha, developed an eye illness. Karkotak Nagaraja disguised himself as a human and went in search of medicine for her and encountered a vaidhya farmer of Bhaktapur whom he asked to treat his wife. The farmer agreed and successfully treated her. Impressed by the farmer’s skill, Karkotak Nagaraja rewarded him with an embroidered vest adorned with gold and diamonds. The farmer wore the vest proudly every day.

Everyone was jealous to see the poor farmer wearing such an expensive vest. Among them, a ghost Lakhe was so intrigued by the vest that he approached the farmer and asked to buy it. However, the farmer refused Lakhe’s offer. One hot day, while working in the fields, the farmer removed the vest and placed it aside. When he returned he discovered that Lakhe had stolen the vest and fled. Unable to catch the thief, the farmer learned that during Rato Machhindranath Jatra, ghosts also come to witness the festivities. He went to the Jatra and searched for Lakhe. Eventually, he saw Lakhe wearing the stolen vest. The farmer confronted Lakhe, but the ghost refused to return the vest.

Coincidently, King Guna Kamadeva was present at the festival. The farmer and the ghost approached the king. The farmer claimed that the vest belonged to him and had been stolen by Lakhe. Lakhe, on the other hand, told the king that he had found he vest in the cornfield and claimed that it should belong to him. However, neither the farmer nor Lakhe had proper evidence to claim the vest. The king took possession of the vest and instructed both parties to return on the last day of the Jatra with sufficient evidence to prove their claim. He also declared that the vest would be safeguarded by Rato Machhindranath until the rightful owner came forward.

On the final day, neither the farmer nor the ghost was able to provide proper evidence. The king ordered one of his officials to display the vest from all sides of the chariot. Despite this, no one came forward to claim it. Since then, the vest has been displayed annually as part of the culmination of the month-long Rato Macchindranath Jatra, in the hope of finding its rightful owner.

Bahra Barse Rato Machhindranath Jatra

Every 12 years, the chariot of Rato Machhindranath is pulled from Bungamati, departing from its usual starting point at Pulchowk. The chariot then traverses Bhaisepati, Nakkhu, Bhanimandal, Jhamsikhel, and Pulchowk before resuming the usual route. During this special jatra, when the chariot crosses the Nakkhu River, music and loud noises are stopped, and the chariot is pulled silently. This unique event is associated with interesting myths: the 12-year jatra is linked to the wife of Satya Naga, while the silent crossing of the Nakkhu River is associated with Queen Maya, the mother of Karunamaye.

Yakah Misaya Bhujya

The chariot of Rato Macchindranth is usually pulled by men. However, between the localities of Iti and Thati, it is exclusively pulled by women for one day. This segment of the chariot-pulling is known as Yakah Misaya Bhujya.

TRAVEL WITH OSPREY ADVENTURE TO EXPLORE MORE

Travel with Osprey Adventure to gain deep insights into the Kathmandu Valley. We employ experienced and knowledgeable city tour guides who can provide you with ample information about the history, culture, and civilization. Kathmandu Valley sightseeing can be done at any time of the year. If you are interested in a specific event, such as the Machhindranath Jatra, you will need to check the exact dates of the celebration. The Machhindranath Jatra takes place between May and August, according to the local calendar.