PUMORI (7,161m), the Daughter of Everest

Pumori (7,161m) is a stunning mountain located in the Everest Region of Nepal, standing 8.5 km west of Mt. Everest. Those trekking to Everest Base Camp and Kalapatthar treated to the best view of Pumori.

The history behind its name is fascinating. George Herbert Leigh Mallory (1886 – 1924), a member of the 1921 British Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition, was the first to explore Mt. Everest from the Tibetan side, as the Nepalese border was closed to foreigners. On July 18, 1921, while camping on a col above the West Rongbuk Glacier with his Sherpa companions, Mallory observed numerous mountain peaks, including Mt. Everest. One peak in particular captured his attention for its beauty and proximity to Everest. Comparing the peak to his 8-year-old daughter, Frances Clare, and Mt. Everest to himself, he imagined a scene of himself and his daughter standing hand-in-hand. Learning from his Sherpa companions that the peak had no name, Mallory christened it after his beloved daughter, calling it “Clare Peak.”

Tragically, George Mallory perished on June 9, 2024, during an attempt to summit Mt. Everest. Over time, the Sherpas forgot Mallory’s daughter’s name but remembered that the peak had been named after her. They began referring to the peak as “The Daughter Peak” in their native Sherpa language. In Sherpa language, ‘Daughter’ translates as “Pumo” and ‘Peak’ as “Ri”. Hence, the name ‘Pumori’ was established.

Since Mallory likened himself to Mt. Everest and his daughter to Pumori when naming the peak, Pumori is now popularly known as “The Daughter of Everest.”

Climbing History of Pumori

Pumori was first climbed on May 17, 1962, by Gerhard Lenser as a member of German Swiss Expedition. The first winter ascent was achieved by a Pakistani climber, Muhammad Ali Sadpara in 2017.

Grading

Pumori is regarded as a technical mountain, classified as a Grade 3 mountain or 4/E in alpine grade system.

Accidents

There have been few accidents recorded on Pumori. On April 25, 2015, an avalanche from Pumori resulted in the deaths of 19 climbers at Everest Base Camp. The avalanche was triggered by a 7.8 magnitude earthquake. Though the accident was not directly related to climbing Pumori, it remains the deadliest accident ever connected to Pumori.

How to reach Pumori?

Pumori can be reached via the ideal route for the Everest Base Camp Trek. The trek begins with a thrilling 35-minute flight to Lukla. It takes approximately 12 to 14 days to trek to the vicinity of Pumori. However, if you are planning to climb the mountain, you should allocate 28 to 35 days.